Pay Attention To The Ups And Downs Of Hanfu In The Capital Circle

The magic of capital has not been carried out in the Hanfu circle, which is known as an annual scale of 10 billion yuan.
"I have bought their Hanfu. The embroidered edge is very heavy, the fabric is very light, the lower skirt group head is very light, the skirt hem is very heavy, it is very uncomfortable to wear, but the price is not low." When talking about more than 13 brands of Hanfu head, after 95 Guofeng illustrator abyss said.
The abyss is not the only one who has such a comment on more than thirteen years old.
"I've been de powdered, and my love for cardamom as an old powder has been exhausted."
"I think I'm going to take off the powder for more than 13 years. This delay is too terrible, and the quality is also ridiculous. The disposable Chinese clothes are not deceptive."
"From the design of powder more than 13 years to slowly, because of the quality control of the powder, very emotional."
Search online for "is it worth buying more than thirteen Hanfu?" Can see to its quality, price's spitting. The fans who once chose more than 13 because of the personal charm of the founder cardamom also began to take off the powder.
After more than 13 years of financing, in recent months began to batch off powder, the speed of old users leaving is accelerating.
In April this year, more than 13 top brands of Hanfu completed a round of financing of more than 100 million yuan. In this round, zhengxingu and station B jointly led the investment and paopaopaoma te co invested, and Mu Mian capital acted as the financial consultant of this round of financing, becoming a Hanfu brand with 100 million yuan of financing.
In addition to more than 13 years, many Hanfu brands also began to take the road of capitalization.
By the end of 2020, Guofeng photography brand "Pan women's workshop" has also obtained a d-round financing of 100 million yuan from Challenger capital. The financing is mainly used for customer service experience upgrading and Hanfu industry chain optimization. At present, it has been listed for IPO.
In September 2020, it will return to the Han and Tang Dynasties and announce the completion of strategic investment and financing; In November 2020, the collection store brand, which is mainly engaged in Hanfu, Lolita clothing and JK uniform, received Angel round financing of RMB 5 million from Fengqiao capital for 12 rounds of light years. In April 2021, it announced to obtain millions of US dollars of pre al round financing, led by Sequoia China Seed Fund, followed by Tencent, MIHA you and Qianyue capital.
However, according to the enterprise survey data, at present, there are more than 2100 enterprises related to Hanfu in China, which does not include individual Hanfu studios, and only a few of them are favored by capital. In 2020, there will be 5.163 million Hanfu enthusiasts in China, and the market scale of Hanfu will reach 6.36 billion yuan.
At the same time, iimedia Research (AI media consulting) data shows that the number and market scale of Chinese Hanfu enthusiasts are growing rapidly. It is predicted that the number of Hanfu enthusiasts will reach 6.894 million in 2021, and the market sales scale will reach 10.16 billion yuan.
Is it really a good business for Hanfu with a scale of 10 billion yuan? Its hidden cultural connotation, when entering the game of capital, has shown some acclimatization.
　 Go back to station B?
With the process of financing, the process of de powdering and dispute comes.
"Create the first set of Hanfu in young people's wardrobe." Those who pay close attention to the more than thirteen years old Han costume should be familiar with this sentence. At the beginning of its establishment in more than thirteen years, the founder of Xiaodou kou'er once said that he wanted to make Chinese cabbage series Hanfu, so that all girls on campus could afford to wear them. But now the price orientation has changed.
In recent years, more than thirteen stores have gradually changed from Hanfu shops to Guofeng stores. Because the shapes and designs do not meet the standards of Hanfu, according to the abyss, such clothes can not be called Hanfu, but can only be regarded as Han element clothing. For example, the fire's joint brand of ≡ fire, each of which has a unique design of Chinese elements. However, in the eyes of Hanfu tongpao, some joint brands are not Hanfu, but more like cosplay.
In addition to part of the popular style out of Hanfu, its price is no longer cabbage. Some of the jointly branded Hanfu even cost more than 1000 yuan. The net yarn without any embroidery costs 99 yuan, such as shawls and skirts, which are sold separately for about 200 yuan.
If the quality is equal to the price, and there is a joint popularity, it is not unreasonable to sell such a price. But this is not the case.
"There are a lot of disputes in their family, but the style and color match are still good-looking, which is more attractive to the Meng Xin who has just entered the pit." The abyss sister said that she had not bought more than thirteen clothes for a long time.
In addition to the fact that the quality can't keep up with the price, and the shape is separated from the Hanfu, a series of operations in the recent live broadcast of more than thirteen years have also gone further and further on the road of powder driving. At the end of April, more than 13 CEO Lu Yang said dirty words and read out his ID name in a live broadcast because a consumer questioned the new product in Chaohua. Although he later made an apology statement on his micro blog, consumers did not seem to buy it.
Coincidentally, in the comment area of the top 13 microblog, we also found the criticism of the anchor: "just after the tmall store live broadcast, Baoma wanted to buy clothes for their children. The live studio reported that the children's clothes were too short. Compared with adult clothes, the workmanship and delicacy were reduced a lot. We still want to buy more than 13 children with original versions. The anchor Jia'er told us directly that if you dislike it, don't buy it... "
At the beginning, all the heat came from Xiaodou kou'er, the founder of wanghong. Little nutmeg is so small that the hot comment in the video of station B is basically to remind him of the needs of a girl who is slightly fat or 168 in height and wide in shoulders.
The little nutmeg's speech speed in the video seems to be increased by 1.5 times. Each time, she introduces her new Hanfu, from fabric, embroidery, decoration to wearing experience and the story behind the design. During the period, she also describes the wearing scene from time to time.
Good, but also with some cultural knowledge of the video style, attracted many fans to pay attention to the store. But now, some people criticize the price of Chinese cabbage into the price of leek.
It has been three months since the completion of round a financing in more than 13 years. However, in the "top 10 list of online development list of Chinese Hanfu brands in 2021" released by the iimedia ranking AI media gold list recently, more than 13 of the top 13 Chinese Hanfu brand online development ranking ranked first in each ranking list, unexpectedly dropped out of the top three.
Like station a and station B, which represent the secondary culture, the broken circle under capital support will bring new demands.
In 2014, due to the copyright lawsuit with iqiyi and Betta, the B station, which was originally hidden in the secondary subculture, came into the public view. According to 36 krypton, at that time, station B had always been tough on the up master, and the old up master's departure events often occurred.
In 2017, on the eve of the listing of station B, the live game industry witnessed unprecedented prosperity. Among the anchors of station B, two of them, who are known as "three pillars", have run two times in half a year.
Now, after the capital intervention, the more than thirteen and Hanfu also need to deal with the plight of de powdering, incremental decline, and the departure of old users, which seems to be the necessary test for breaking the circle of minority culture.
The problem of exponential growth
Can Hanfu be sold at a higher price per customer? Sure, but it's hard to standardize.
The average price of some high-end Hanfu is more than 1000 yuan. The concept of this kind of Hanfu is textured. Therefore, many kinds of silk fabrics have been woven. Because this kind of fabric weaving is more complex, the efficiency is lower than modern fabrics, so the overall cost will be higher.
Different from the medium and high-end restored Hanfu, Songsong in 1994 ran a cheap Hanfu shop called SONGFENG Shanyue. The average price of Hanfu in the store was about 100 yuan. She insisted on the shape of Hanfu, believing that "the shape will not change. It will follow the shape of traditional clothing, and it is just a little more modern in design."
A suit of Hanfu costs tens of thousands, which is not uncommon in the Hanfu circle. After the ancient costume idol drama "mountain and river order" was broadcast, the producers found a new way to make money: auctioning the original Hanfu, or drama costume. On April 9, the price of nine sets of original Hanfu exceeded 20000 yuan, and Wenke's red clothes were even sold for 220000 days.
According to the statistics of AI media, 40.5% of Hanfu enthusiasts are motivated to like Hanfu culture, and 33.6% of Hanfu enthusiasts are out of consideration of promoting Chinese traditional culture. Abyss also said that he began to like traditional culture from high school, and then like Hanfu. In the selection of Hanfu, they will choose their favorite color and fabric based on the shape.
From design and production to contacting models, photographing product drawings, and finally putting them on the shelves, some real Hanfu merchants will connect with each other“ At present, our photographers, makeup artists and models are all recommended by friends. Some models and photographers of Chinese clothing will also publish their works on social platforms. If necessary, you can search them directly. " Introduction to Matsushi.
There are more than 2000 related users of "Hanfu zhuangniang / Hanfu photography" on Weibo. In addition, a large number of practitioners engaged in Hanfu modeling / Hanfu photography can also be retrieved by searching the channels such as Xianyu and Douban.
In 2019, there are two apps that target users are Hanfu users. The suspected actual controller of gutao app is Alibaba culture and entertainment Co., Ltd., which owns 90% of the shares. Huaxia app was developed by Guangzhou cashew Information Technology Co., Ltd., and the suspected controller was Guangzhou Huya Information Technology Co., Ltd.
Its purpose is to build a community of communication and exchange around the Hanfu group. However, according to the interviews with businessmen and colleagues, the two apps have not become popular in the Hanfu circle. The whole Hanfu industry chain still focuses on introducing each other in the circle.
If you understand this circle, you will know that the real dynamic Hanfu circle pays more attention to the cultural value of Hanfu. It already has the positioning, price system and supply-demand relationship of Hanfu in the circle, forming a relatively complete but not standardized understanding system.
Those small Hanfu factories will encounter the same problem when looking for garment factories: small volume, factories will give priority to large orders, and the construction period is relatively long. There are some differences between Chinese and modern garment fabrics. In some details, we need to communicate with the factory repeatedly, and even have the situation of revision and redoing.
When talking about more than thirteen years, the abyss said that someone once ridiculed more than thirteen years of supporting half of the Han clothing circle. The reason is that with the rapid growth of Hanfu economy and the entry of capital, many people see business opportunities and join the Hanfu market to survive by copying more than thirteen top brands of Hanfu. Among them, there is Caoxian, the "Internet red", and in 2019, the e-commerce transaction volume of Caoxian county is 51.6 billion yuan. In the same year, the boss of hanshang Hualian, a well-known Hanfu brand, took the Hanfu merchants in Caoxian county to court because his Hanfu was copied too much. This also proves its innovation ability from the side.
Facing the problem of plagiarism, the column of "Hanfu library" in Huaxia app mentioned above contains all original authentic Hanfu since 2009, classifies them by Dynasty, price and commodity age, and establishes a database of authentic Hanfu based on this.
Huang Yifan, executive director of dynamic capital, who once participated in the investment of things and super orangutan, once said that "this is because the development stage of Hanfu economy is still in the early stage. Most practitioners start from their own hobbies, and the development orientation of the brand or company does not match the financing expansion path, This situation will change with the maturity of the industry and the entry and growth of excellent teams.
　　 The distant 10 billion market
What does a Hanfu suit for summer look like? 618 will be included in the promotion of Hanfu
Xiaodou kou'er, the founder of more than 13 years ago, has published Chinese clothing related content on Weibo and station B. its Weibo fans have 5.22 million, and there are 1.241 million fans on station B. Recently, she released a video on station B about how to wear Hanfu, with the title of "the opening way of wearing Hanfu in Yiyi n, promoting Hanfu, Luoshen flower explanation video is coming ~", and the first opening sentence is that this is an introduction to the promotion of Hanfu with summer characteristics.
In the video, in addition to changing into a pure old-fashioned Hanfu, Xiaodou kou'er also matches the old-fashioned jacket with the modern short skirt, so as to be comfortable and comfortable to wear in daily life.
This kind of operation is also one of the reasons why there are many disputes in the Hanfu circle in the past thirteen years, especially when it is questioned by the formal party.
Abyss told box lunch finance and Economics: "some people say it's Hanfu, but it's not the Wei Jin style, but the fairy style. It's just that the shape is wrong."
It is understood that in the Hanfu circle, there is a chain of disdain. The Party of Hanfu shape looks down on the reformists of Hanfu.
The Party of the Han Dynasty's clothing shape called "invisible, not Hanfu", and required to follow the clothing characteristics of the past dynasties, and strictly follow the characteristics and matching styles of the dynasties at that time; The reformists, on the other hand, do not care about the clothing system of the past dynasties. They can be good-looking and comfortable if they like. They don't care about the tradition of the Han Dynasty.
From the perspective of capital, more than thirteen is still a good investment target.
It can be said that in addition to the commercialization ability, the more important reason is the IP influence of cardamom“ The mode of "online celebrity + e-commerce" has been verified by commercial enterprises.
However, some people think that it is difficult for Hanfu to adopt the Internet mode of mass production and adjustment according to the needs of users. According to the founder of a high-end Hanfu brand mentioned above, it takes about 2-3 months for the whole process from studying literature, designing, weaving fabrics to making ready-made clothes, with a total investment of several hundred thousand yuan“ There has always been, but not much. If the cumulative investment is included, I feel that it can't be counted back at present. "
When asked about the reason for her persistence, the other party admitted that she was a bit idealistic. Before that, the Han clothing circle had been very keen on Japanese and Korean fabrics for a while, which made her feel a little lost. She thought that China has such a long history, and she also has her own traditional fabrics and can also make her own traditional patterns.
Of course, if he can, the founder also hopes to raise funds. After all, R & D is very expensive. However, when asked whether there will be changes due to capital, she did not give a definite answer. She only mentioned that she has an equal relationship with consumers. "We are not love beans, they are not fans, we respect consumers very much."
This year's Dragon Boat Festival, Henan satellite TV underwater Luoshen dance "Qi" hit the Internet. During the Spring Festival, dancers wearing Hanfu perform the Tang Palace Banquet, which is called the Spring Festival program by netizens. At the same time, the Spring Festival Gala of CCTV and Sichuan TV also opened up Hanfu unit. As early as April 2018, the Central Committee of the Communist Youth League, in conjunction with station B, designated March 3 of the lunar calendar as "Chinese costume day" to stage a large-scale Han costume and etiquette T-stage song and dance show.
However, apart from culture, Hanfu is also a business after all. It is far more than ready-made clothes, but also includes the industrial chain of drawing design, cloth transportation, printing and cutting, processing and production, finished product transportation, publicity and sales. Compared with general clothing, there are also business superimposed such as garment processing, photography and photo rental.
This is an interesting property of this industry. On the one hand, it needs the support of capital in order to be large-scale. On the other hand, it has unique cultural attributes, which makes it difficult to achieve the exponential growth required by capital.