Lack Of Raw Materials And Environmental Protection -- Dress Industry: Perfect Green Chain In Practice
Guest of honor
Deputy director of Institute of industrial economics, China Apparel Association
Guo Qiang Chen
Liang Xiaohui, chief researcher of China Textile Industry Association Social Responsibility Office
In the era of shortage of raw materials and environmental protection, what policies, laws and mechanisms are needed to improve the formation of a reversible cycle from consumer clothing to recycled materials? What kind of attitude should we take to explore this vast green ocean? And listen to how the two experts think about it.
Reporter: a professional clothing handling agency in Shanghai can pass fibrosis.
technology
The old clothes are redeveloped, and their difficulty is that it is difficult to recycle old clothes.
Because the old clothes discarded by consumers have the characteristics of no ownership, they are currently working with the relevant departments of Shanghai greening and appearance Administration Bureau to set up old clothes recycling boxes in the district.
What do you think is the future direction of professional clothing recycling companies? Can 1+X model come into being?
Chen Guoqiang: in the recycling of old clothes, I feel that the development of the two lines will be better.
One is the original clothing.
brand
Through the promotion of "old for new" and other promotional activities, clothing recycling, but the workload will be very large; two, professional companies for recycling.
Either way, there is a complex classification of clothing recycling.
Cotton, linen, silk and other natural ingredients, chemical fiber components and a large number of blended fabrics are the main components of clothing textile materials. In the process of recycling, the original labels often lose and require technical classification and identification.
In this sense, I think the 1+X mode of professional companies combined with the original manufacturers will be more efficient.
Because there are some virtual operations in clothing enterprises, even if some of them have their own processing plants, there is little inclusion of upstream textile research and development. Therefore, it is better for the professional institutions to recycle after recycling.
And clothing brands have their own positioning, in the market has a fixed number of customers, this is the basis of old clothes recycling.
In the current tense situation of raw materials, old clothes recycling is a good way.
If the old clothes are treated as domestic refuse, the final fate is mostly fuel, which is a pity.
Liang Xiaohui: theoretically, such a mechanism may come into being. But how many brands will specially create such a place in the small gold shop and deal with the recycling problem with the special person? Will the store (and the brand) raise the health and safety of the old clothes? How big is the commercial feasibility of the specialized recycling agency? Is it possible to invite upstream enterprises to participate in the establishment of such a recycling institution? All these problems need to be considered.
Reporter: what are the conditions for the formation of the old clothes recycling mechanism in the process of combining professional companies and brand enterprises? What role should the government play?
Chen Guoqiang: in the process, I think the construction of industrial base is very important.
The industrial base provides the necessary venues and related facilities for the professional institutions, which will be the main space and position of their future survival.
The construction of industrial base requires certain policy and environmental support, such as tax incentives.
Recycling of old clothes is a green industry with low consumption and low emissions. In China, such a country with large population base and low per capita resources, this is a very important gap.
The government can make appropriate tilt in the soft environment such as land supply, regional support and other hard environment and industrial policies, so as to support the development of this industry.
Liang Xiaohui: the formation of this chain should be supported by the government and led by the brand. Besides, the consciousness and responsibility of the intermediate distributors are particularly important in China to facilitate the recovery mechanism.
Reporter: at present, there is an industry chain of upstream fabric enterprises, clothing brands, and consumers in production and sales. Can you form a reversible chain of consumers, clothing brands, professional organizations or upstream textile and garment enterprises in the recycling of old clothing? How to solve the problem of ownership of old clothes in commercial circulation?
Chen Guoqiang: enterprises should innovate their thinking.
When we were young, some people bought old clothes, mainly in two directions. First, they were sold as scrap or old cloth to the waste market, and used as pulp or fuel. The other was to pick out new clothes, clean them and enter the second-hand market.
These are relatively traditional, low-grade old clothes recycling mode and simple circulation system.
In the industrial environment where textile and garment production capacity is developed and resources are relatively scarce, I believe that enterprises should continuously innovate their business models and profit models, and constantly separate and separate industrial areas, so as to realize the economies of scale of old clothes recycling.
Just now you mentioned the problem of the ownership of old clothes. From a consumer's point of view, if they throw their old clothes directly into the trash can, they will give up ownership. If the brand enterprise reclaims through a certain way, it is a pfer and pfer of ownership.
There are two terminals involved. The consumer is the final processing terminal, and the other is the terminal of the recycling party, which is what Li Kailuo mentioned as a number of brands.
There are two advantages of brand participation, which can make the recycling channel more smooth and promote brand sales.
In terms of the old clothing recycling mechanism, I feel that there are technical problems, business models, and related legal and policy issues, which can be perfected continuously.
At present, this work is carried out in the form of government led recycling boxes in the community. In the future, more elements can be absorbed. For example, the environmental protection enterprises can be attracted through the advertisement on the recycling bin, for example, in the crowded subway station, there are many terminal ends that can be developed and utilized.
The most important thing is that industries and enterprises should jointly start the practice of reverse green industrial chain, and continue to adjust the related problems. Any area's development is constantly improved in the dynamic process of finding problems and solving problems in practice.
Liang Xiaohui: in the early days of the clothing recycling business, this is a useful exploration. However, one of the problems of this practice is the lack of incentives. In a development stage where we can not even achieve the garbage classification, it will not be a widely popularized mode.
The main problem is that there is no incentive for all parties to analyze interests and to clarify risks.
In the system, national policies lack guidance. Upstream enterprises are also hard to use recycled materials as an important material source. Therefore, if the system guidance is not clear enough, so that recycling can be concentrated to a certain scale, it will be very difficult to realize the role of this value chain.
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