China's "Chi Made" Clothing Is On The International Stage &Nbsp; China's Elements Become Bright Spots.

Wu Haiyan, vice president of the China Fashion Designers Association and vice president of the school of design, The China Academy of Art, was forced to buy a quality product. flaw The so-called international top coat, which is also very well designed, is priced at 9998 yuan.

It was in a class of Wu Haiyan that a student in his pen scratched unintentionally on the black clothes of an international brand. The staff at the scene severely reprimanded the student and asked the students to buy the jacket. The student was frightened to cry. Wu Haiyan bought the dress and looked at it carefully, and there were other blemishes in it. "General design and poor quality of clothing can also sell nearly 10000 yuan? Is the quality and design of our Chinese brands less than that?" asked Wu Haiyan.

In recent years, with all kinds of "made in China" products going to the world, the clothing industry has never stopped discussing: when will China have its own Dior and Chanel?

At the end of October 2011, the "Youth Cup" Chinese youth costume design competition was jointly held by the China Youth Daily and the Ningbo Municipal Committee of the Communist Party of China. The final was held in Ningbo. As a judge, Wu Haiyan watched hundreds of entries from all over the country. In her view, "the design standards of Chinese young designers are no worse than those of foreign peers." She believes that China's "smart" clothing is on the international stage.

　　 Can Chinese elements become Knocking bricks

Famous designer John Galliano, a red cheongsam designed for an internationally famous luxury brand in 1997, was considered to be the classic of "Chinese elements" at that time. Can Chinese elements become a "stepping stone" to China's "smart" clothing industry in the future? How many buyers are willing to pay for the "Chinese elements"?

In this China youth clothing design competition, young designers have also focused their attention on the "Chinese elements". Chime bells, paper cutting, Beacon Tower, Chinese tea, Buddha and other elements with Chinese characteristics were excavated by the contestants, and grafted into the dress design, becoming the highlight.

Yang Chao, the third year student, won the bronze medal in this contest. He designed 5 sets of clothing mainly in tea and light gray tone, specially used cashmere, cotton and linen and other soft thin materials to symbolize the ups and downs of making tea. "It's like the life situation, the same as the artistic conception when making tea." {page_break}

Yang Chao felt that "Chinese elements" did not necessarily embody obvious element symbols in clothing design, such as the theme of "Chinese tea". It is not necessary to make clothes into "teapot shaped" or "cup like" to highlight China and highlight the avant-garde, but to convey a kind of "Chinese tea" theme. Elegant and quiet And the tranquil "Chinese temperament".

Ann Muld, director of the fashion design department of Coventry University, praised the ability of young designers to apply "Chinese elements". She gave all the contestants more than 9 points. "The level of young designers in China is almost the same as that in the UK, and they have a unique understanding of" Chinese elements ".

Ann Muld also likes to integrate Chinese elements into clothing. She said that many international fashion companies now have young Chinese designers. "Their design capabilities are no worse than those of other countries, and the integration of things is more meaningful."

　　 China is not necessarily "heavy".

In the competition, some contestants are puzzled how to properly use the "Chinese elements".

When the series of costumes with grey tea and gray appear on the T stage, few viewers applaud. A student who came to see the designer "Xiu" in Ningbo textile and garment Institute said, "this tone is too heavy. I don't like it. Young people should be dressed brightly and cooltly."

The confusions of Yang Chao, the designer of the competition, followed. "The way of designing the Chinese elements may be relatively simple and the colors are darker, but the young people dress up to be innovative. How can the simple style cater to the young people? What should we do when fashion meets" Chinese elements "?

Wang Xin, a gold medal winner and a junior student, did not expect that the design of his coffee colored works inspired by chimes actually won the gold prize.

In the eyes of the judges, it is precisely those designs that have no intention of flaunting "avant-garde" shapes, no simple pursuit of color trends, and no clumsy "Chinese elements".

The so-called "Chinese element" is not only the loess land, but also the Chinese knot, the buckle, the Tang suit, the the Great Wall, the the Imperial Palace, the silk and the big wide sleeves. The director of the China red gang research institute and the seventh generation of Hong Bang's successor, Qi Bai Jun, have 15 years of experience in men's fashion design, plate making and clothing making. He believes that the best way to use "Chinese elements" is "freehand brushwork" rather than "realism". "To have deeper artistic conception and thinking, for example, the choice of grey suits is a satire to the gray society at that time."

Qi Bai Jun valued the "Chinese elements" in detail and artistic conception, such as the ancient rivet on leather, the "linen" material on clothes, the double cloth on the top of the garment, and the overall design style. {page_break}

"Why is it that the same Han Dynasty costume excavated from ancient tombs is in the rush for collectors, while young students are not interested in it?" Wu Haiyan stressed that we should grasp the "scale" and "activate" the ancient Chinese elements.

She advocated the use of "Chinese elements" after "breaking up". Chinese elements On the contrary, it doesn't look good. "

　　 Many people fall on skills.

During the interview, the reporters found that the experts held a positive attitude towards the costume design level of the participating designers. Some experts with overseas travel experience even believed that the design level of young designers in China was comparable to that of their counterparts abroad.

But the teaching defects of school "heavy theory and light skill" will restrict the development of some young designers.

"Many people will fall on skills." Xia Peng, a fashion designer who has been working for many years, elaborated on all kinds of development difficulties that a young designer may encounter after graduation. One of the most important problems is "technology".

Some colleges and universities only teach students how to design "four years", but seldom teach students how to print and make clothes. This kind of teaching method of "emphasizing theory and skills" is very harmful to students when they go to work.

"A designer can not easily design a garment, and the master of plate making says that he can't do it, or he has made a wild demand." Xia Peng said that under such circumstances, those designers who do not know how to make clothes will be "on the oven". "The boss wants a cheap and beautiful design, and the designer himself does not know how to make clothes, and can not find a breakthrough to reduce production costs. Finally, the product will be ordered, but no one will buy it."

Xia Peng has seen many talented young designers and alumni in "skills". Some of them have changed careers to do other jobs, and some of them go to learn to play and make clothes at their own expense after graduation.

The red gang successor, Qi Bai Jun, has received many letters from young designers, eager to learn how to print and practice clothes. But among the two hundred or three hundred apprentice, only one or two were left to the end. Most people can't bear to learn for two months. "The foundation of design is skill, and skill is a required course."

Professor Wu Haiyan, who has been engaged in fashion design teaching for a long time, divides the growth of a "master" designer into three stages. One is the basic knowledge of school learning, including two levels of clothing design and design; two, it has been practicing for at least 3 years in the enterprise, and has become a versatile choice; three is the promotion of culture and creativity to help him become a "master". {page_break}

　　 China's "smart manufacturing" needs a more mature industrial environment.

An important reason that hinders China's "intelligent manufacturing" products from entering the international market is that good designers are not able to match the "big and strong" clothing enterprises. This is also the main reason why miss Wu Haiyan has always insisted on taking part in the appraisal of the Chinese youth costume design competition for many years. She hoped that "through the competition, we could launch a good young designer."

The Ningbo Municipal Committee of the contestants of the competition has created an opportunity to enter the "designer talent pool" for the 25 finalists. In the future, they can find their own design posts through the talent pool.

Wu Haiyan introduced that in addition to holding youth designer competitions every year, there is also a way to "dress creative garden".

During her visit to Britain, she saw that the "costume creative garden" provided various subdivision services for young designers at all stages of entrepreneurship. Such as college students, they can make free showrooms outside the creative garden on Saturday and Sunday, display and sell their designed and made ready-made clothes. Talented graduates can enter the creative garden and enjoy a series of "incubation services". The creative park will seek financial investment for college students, focusing on its growth in design ability and providing training for them.

Some phenomena are puzzling: why do Chinese first-class cities, first-class blocks, first-class shopping malls, first-class counters are always left to foreign brands?

Wu Haiyan could not bear to see such a practice. She thought that she should keep her own door. She suggested that a more complete "early warning system for Chinese culture" should be set up. "For example, Hermes's manual work is" absolute work ". It has not been interrupted for many years, and the added value of its products is very high. Then, how much of the" absolute work "of our Chinese clothing industry has been handed down and how much is going to be lost?