French Lace Manufacturer La Perla Has Been Bankrupt. How Long Haven'T You Worn Lace?
After failing to get 170 employees' salaries in December, a familiar sense of crisis approached Noyon Dentelle, a French lace manufacturer. In ten years, it submitted bankruptcy applications to the court in 2008 and 2016.
Recently, it filed for bankruptcy again.
According to the women's wear daily, the court gave Noyon Dentelle a 6 month turnover period and will hold a hearing in the commercial court in March 7th.
The Noyon Dentelle scheme, which is unable to pay wages, is now more than two times less than the number of 440 people in 2008.
The predecessor of Noyon Dentelle is Lucien Noyon, one of the oldest lace manufacturers in the Calais area of France. It was founded in 1919. It is good at making Lewis lace, known as "Rolls-Royce in lace". This exquisite and expensive lace is often used for underwear and garments.
In September 2016, when Lucien Noyon applied for bankruptcy last time, it had made a change.
In order to survive, in January 2017, Lucien Noyon sold 20% of the shares to underwear manufacturers Van de Velde, La Perla, Etam and MAS Holdings respectively, and worked with them to set up a new company Noyon Noyon.
The remaining 20% share is held by Noyon holding company PBO and current manager Henri-Philippe Durlet.
The new company bought all the inventory and equipment of Lucien Noyon and was ready to start again.
"We need to adopt new strategies based on market changes," said Sebastien Bentos Suares, deputy manager of Noyon Dentelle. "Some people may think that layoffs are not human, but in the long run, this is our only option.
Fortunately, the court trusted us, and we still have 6 months to prove to the judges that their trust is right. "
According to Sebastien, he noticed that many young designers are very interested in lace, which is good news for the industry.
This may indicate that Noyon Dentelle will then look for young independent designers to cooperate.
"Lace didn't die, she just started a new life."
He said.
Even though he remains optimistic, the survival of lace is becoming smaller and smaller from the perspective of the French market environment.
Lewis lace is often used in high-end underwear brands such as La Perla because of its low output, gorgeous and expensive.
In addition, it often appears in Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Chloe and other luxury brands.
Women stars wear Valentino, Elie Saab and other dresses when they walk on the red carpet. They often use Lewis lace very much.
In recent years, Lewis's most famous appearance is in the wedding dress worn by the British Princess Kate.
But in recent years, fewer and fewer factories have been able to produce Weiss lace.
This is related to its production cost.
Dedicated to the production of Weiss lace tools, "Lewis shuttle loom" can make 16000 yarns at the same time, according to the established pattern, thread and winding, so as to make finer, higher color fastness, and batch production quality stable lace, the effect is better than manual production.
But its production cycle is long, its output is low, and there is still a higher demand for users' skills.
Especially in the underwear and clothing market, the demand for Lewis lace is very stable, mostly for customized customers.
However, when labor costs and machine costs are rising, it is difficult for Weiss lace factories to maintain profitability or even fall.
During the Shanghai fashion week in April 2018, the Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art (MoCA) held an exhibition called "love lace".
It displays the lace garments produced by 14 French lace factories, which have selected world-famous female characters as inspiration, including Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monro, Madonna and so on.
The 14 factories to produce exhibits are the last 14 Lewis lace factories in the French Calais area.
In order to maintain the survival of lace manufacturers, the government is helping them. The exhibition in Shanghai is jointly organized by the General Administration of French enterprises and the Senna District in France.
In order to help Weiss lace to recruit talents, the local government also set up a special lace school.
Interviewing news curator Pascal Gautrand during the exhibition, he said: "manufacturers are always looking for new business opportunities, and we are doing our best.
Although the needs of life have been well satisfied, I believe that some people still need Lewis lace, because it represents beauty, tradition and reality, is a part of culture and civilization, and is something that people want to keep in a rapidly changing era.
Source: interface writer:
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