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Huafeng Longsell: Achieve High-End Textile With Domestic Lyocell Filament And Start Green Journey Again

2021/7/9 13:44:00 0

　　 Reporter Guo Chunhua

　　 What is the most popular word in the field of textile and clothing in recent years?

　　 environmental protection

　　 From the promotion and utilization of renewable raw materials by terminal brands to energy conservation and emission reduction in the production of upstream links, the whole industry is striving for environmental burden reduction. In this context, Lyocell fiber stands out with its sustainable development concept, clean production process and excellent fiber performance, and is favored by major terminal brands. Lyocell fiber was born in the mid-1990s. It has the excellent properties of natural fiber and synthetic fiber, and is known as the most valuable product in the history of man-made fiber in the past half century. However, due to the technical barriers in the production process, Lyocell fiber has been in the form of "short fiber" for a long time, and Lyocell filament is rarely produced.

　　 In recent years, the first domestic Lyocell filament, loncel, which has completely independent intellectual property rights, has entered the field of vision. Its excellent quality makes the products get great attention from the industry. Jiang Shicheng, academician of the Chinese Academy of engineering, commented that the appearance of loncel has created a new category of Lyocell fiber and made outstanding contributions to the overall promotion of the transformation and upgrading and sustainable development of China's regenerated cellulose fiber industry, which may become a new bright spot and growth point of textile and chemical fiber industry in the future.

　　 Since the project was launched in August 2010, loncel has gone through ten years of hard research and development. Looking back on the development of loncel in the past ten years, it is a decade of rapid development of China's textile industry, and also a decade of China's transformation from a textile power to a textile power. In the past ten years, loncel has created a new era of regenerated cellulose fiber, which has contributed to the development of science and technology, fashion and green of textile industry.

　　 many things grow in the garden that were never sown there

　　 ——Roncel is in its infancy

　　 Loncel is a kind of Lyocell filament product produced by Zhejiang Huafeng longcel Fiber Technology Co., Ltd., which has been researched and developed for ten years. There are a series of little-known stories behind it. The R & D team of loncel has become the "first crab eater" in the industry. A few days ago, a reporter came to Anji, Zhejiang Province, where the concept of "green hills are golden mountains and silver mountains" came to experience the R & D story of "longsell".

Wang Qiangqiang

　　 As for the question of why the enterprise will develop the lacell filament in its own way, Wang Qiangqiang, the sales director of Huafeng longsell company, laughs: "it is really unintentional to insert willows into the shade." It was in 2010 that Lu Xinjie, the founder of loncel, was still galloping in the cord fabric industry. At that time, he wanted to open up a new category in the cord fabric industry, so he searched the literature on zhizhi.com and found an article using Lyocell filament to make cord fabric. However, during the inspection process, it was found that some indexes of Lyocell filament were not suitable for cord fabric, On the contrary, it is very suitable for civil use. Subsequently, Lu Xinjie called on the company's top management to turn the research and development direction to the civil field“ During this period, we have experienced quite a long time of suffering, because there is no previous experience to learn from, and we are not sure about the production process and future development of Lyocell filament It is understood that compared with staple fiber, the production process of Lyocell filament is more complex, and the profit is far lower than staple fiber. Even the world famous brand Lanjing company has only small-scale filament production.

　　 "At that time, the general manager and I would go to a nearby lake to discuss this issue after work every day. Because it is late at night, there is no sound, so we can more clearly analyze whether to put this product into production. Considering that the lancing Lyocell filament is only open to the European market and its price is too high to meet the demand of consumers in China and other countries, we decided to give it a go. It was at that time that I really felt the wonderful feeling of the recovery of all things in my life. " Recalling the scene at that time, Wang Qiangqiang still has a fresh memory.

　　 Sharpen a sword in ten years

　　 ——Ronsell

　　 Lu Xinjie, the founder of loncel, began to form a team after he decided to go all out. It is understood that more than 80% of the founding team members of loncel have a master's degree or above in relevant majors, and half of the members have more than 15 years of professional experience. In particular, the chief scientist and chief engineer have been immersed in the industry for more than 30 years.

　　 Because there is no experience to learn from, and no corresponding equipment can be directly used. The relevant equipment and parts are designed by the company's R & D team, and installed after processing. It is a complete set of self-designed production line. In the laboratory research stage, the production line did not spin silk at first, and everyone in the team had no clue. The company's chief engineer said, "due to the technical confidentiality, we had no communication with the outside world at that time, and we had to rely on ourselves to solve problems." With the joint efforts of everyone, after a series of adjustments, the spinning was finally successful.

　　 In November 2012, the continuous production line with an annual output of 100 tons of Lyocell filament was started, marking the shift of production from laboratory to industrialization. In April 2016, the 100 ton production line of loncel produced silk successfully, and the products achieved stable production. In January 2017, loncel successfully produced 180000 meter full roll yarn, marking the complete maturity of the production process. In October of the same year, loncel held the first meeting at China International Textile yarn exhibition, which immediately caused a sensation in the industry. Huang Zhigao, a famous fashion designer and member of the China Committee of the Asian Fashion Federation, said that new fiber fabrics are more and more widely used in modern fashion. Many Chinese designers with international reputation suffer from the difficulty of finding new fabrics and are unable to fully present their design ideas. The advent of loncel filament has won an international reputation for China's new fiber manufacturing industry, It also provides more possibilities for the works of Chinese designers.

　　 Nevertheless, the initial promotion of loncel was not smooth. Wang Qiangqiang recalled that when loncel was just produced in 2016, due to the fact that major fabric enterprises were very unfamiliar with this filament product, they all conservatively refused to cooperate with loncel. Wang Qiangqiang went all over the fabric market, and finally found a partner in a Keqiao enterprise, and received the sample fabric on October 19, 2016. Wang Qiangqiang still remembers this day. In order to better promote loncel, the company's top management established Huai'an natural silk textile technology Co., Ltd., specializing in the operation of loncel. After that, in order to better development, the company settled in Anji, Zhejiang Province, and registered and established Zhejiang Huafeng longcel Fiber Technology Co., Ltd. in June 2020.

　　 Excellent features in one

　　 ——Loncel is highly recognized

　　 Loncel has been recognized in the industry since its appearance, because the length of loncel fiber can reach hundreds of thousands of meters, which means that there is no joint in the weaving process“ Compared with other staple fiber products, the fabric produced by loncel fiber is stronger and smoother, with good drape texture, durability and hand feel comparable to natural mulberry silk fabric, and its dyeability, color fastness, strength and post-processing performance are better than that of mulberry silk. In addition, compared with mulberry silk, the surface of loncel fiber does not contain collagen, so it is not easy to mold and has good antibacterial properties Zhou Yunfei, the sales manager of the company, is very familiar with the excellent characteristics of his products.

Zhou Yunfei

　　 In addition, as a regenerated cellulose fiber, loncel filament is a high-grade fiber product, its dry strength is 2 times of the current mainstream filament products, wet strength is 3 times, hot water shrinkage rate is only 0.5%, which is 1 / 16 of cuprammonia filament and 1 / 13 of viscose filament. In particular, its perspiration and moisture permeability are no less than pure cotton products. It can be said that it is a new type of regenerated cellulose fiber products with the advantages of mulberry silk and cotton products. Moreover, loncel filament also inherits the characteristics of Lyocell "green" fiber. It uses natural soluble wood pulp as raw material. It does not use acid-base solution or chemical reaction in the production process. It only uses recyclable non-toxic skin friendly solvent, which will not cause any pollution to the environment. The finished product can be 100% degraded in the natural environment.

　　 What is more valuable is that the R & D team fully owns the core intellectual property rights of loncel manufacturing and independently masters the proprietary technology of product manufacturing. Up to now, the R & D team has more than 30 patents, including 19 invention patents. Loncel's manufacturing technology not only fills the domestic technical gap, but also takes the leading position in the international Lyocell filament manufacturing, and has the strength to compete with the international fiber manufacturing giants.

　　 Aim at more high-end fields

　　 ——The future of loncel

　　 Ren Anhua, deputy general manager of the company, thinks that the current achievements of loncel are far from enough“ At present, the research and development of loncel filament is only "the first step in the long march". In the future, we need to concentrate on continuously optimizing equipment and technology, and constantly improving technology. At the same time, we will continue to cooperate with downstream users to carry out application research and development, so as to better serve customers and expand the market. The research and development of product application technology is relatively complex, and a new type of fiber will face some new problems in weaving, dyeing and finishing. In order to improve the added value of the products, we need to solve all the application problems that may be encountered in the next process, which is a very hard process. " According to reports, the current loncel can be used in high-end fabrics, and can be combined and interwoven with mulberry silk, cotton and other fibers, and can also be directly applied. The main product specifications are 50D, 80D, 120d, etc.

Ren Anhua

　　 Ren Anhua introduced that Huafeng longcel Co., Ltd. has inherited the R & D entity "Huai'an natural silk technology" after ten years of painstaking efforts. It plans to invest 1.2 billion yuan in construction funds to form a Lyocell filament production line with an annual production capacity of 20000 tons, and the annual production capacity of phase I is planned to be 5000 tons. The factory is located in Anji tianzihu Industrial Park. It has entered the stage of equipment installation and is expected to be put into operation in September this year.

　　 Looking forward to the future, it can be seen from the "14th five year plan" development outline of textile industry that Lyocell fiber will be the key development product during the "14th five year plan" period, with broad market prospects. Ren Anhua is also full of confidence in the future development, he said that the future loncel filament will have a wide range of application prospects. In the civil field, it can be used in high-end ready-made clothing, home textile, mother and baby industries that attach great importance to fiber quality and safety. In the field of automobile manufacturing, it can be used as the material needed for interior decoration and seat. In addition, it also has a very good application prospect in the fields of aerospace and military industry. In the next step, Huafeng longsell company will continue to make deep efforts in technology research and development, adhere to the innovation from the source, take the high-tech road of high quality, high efficiency, low consumption and pollution-free, take the lead in forming a new economic development mode with innovation as the main guidance and support, and make greater contributions to the green development and progress of China's textile industry.