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"Leather Shoes Master" Xi Fuyue Reveals The Secret Of A Pair Of Good Shoes.

2014/3/17 0:01:00 152

Xi Fuyue, born in Wuxi in 1957. In the system of a target= "_blank" href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/" > shoes < /a >, the factory has been working for 35 years. Now it is specially responsible for shoe inspection and after-sale work / morning paper reporter Yang Mei /p.
 Xi Fuyue's left thumb is too big and his cervical vertebra is not very good. 
 he is a "leather shoe master" who has been making shoes for more than thirty years. 
P, give him a pair of shoes and see what's wrong with it at the first glance. Today, this vision is his "food to eat", for factory shoes checks. 
Less than p decades ago, his service was more direct. A young man was eager to date his girlfriend and his shoes rubbed on his feet were stitched by Xi Fuyue. 
 he remembers that for a long time, Shanghai people liked a "83 shoe" very much. The selling price is 18.6 yuan, and the cost will reach 12 or 3 yuan. "At that time, the enterprise should pay attention to quality." 
 this period, "serving Shanghai for thirty years", we know Xi Fuyue, a shoemaking craftsman. 
 Xi teaches you how to buy shoes 
 Xi Tai Road is a narrow broken road. 
There are two leather shoes factories on the road that is only a few hundred meters below P, but the other one has already closed down for a long time, and the workshop has become a warehouse of a group company. The leather shoe factory that lives is not far away from the intersection. Two steps from the intersection, you can see an iron gate on the right hand side, and the brand of "Shanghai LAN Tong Bo Leather Shoes Co., Ltd." is hung by the door. 
 iron gate has a bit of black, hollowed out pattern. Push the iron door to go inside, it will feel that time stagnate in 1980 and 1990s, it seems that no longer passed. The two building of five storey building is relatively upright, the wall has not been repaired, keeps the past yellow soil cement face, and the four square square old steel windows are inlaid on the wall. The walls were crawling with Parthenocissus. Because of the cold weather, the green leaves had not yet come out, only bare bare branches. 
 this is the typical appearance of the old factory building in 1980s. If it is not a row of cars parked in the yard, it will really make people feel puzzled about time. 
 the first floor of the house on the edge of the house. The door is a large room. When the door is opened, a large stack of shoe boxes is seen. The height of the room is very high, it is more than four meters, and the room is empty. Besides the shoe box, the main thing is to set up a row of desks by the window. The window is still the old steel window, probably on the first floor to guard against theft, so densely added many crossbars. Xi Fuyue was standing in front of the window with a pair of black boat shaped women's shoes in her hand. 
 he put the middle finger straight behind the shoe and looked inside, then put the front side of the two shoes together, with the toe to the toe and the back toward the back. Next, he turned the shoes over to make their backs tight. After that, he picked up the front of the shoe and raised it to the horizontal line of sight, looking straight at it like a gun aimed at the target. After that, he looked carefully at the stitch for the outer shoe, then put the two shoes on the table, pressed the top of the leather shoes with his index finger, slightly used some strength, and the shoes did not move steadily. 
 the whole set of Xi Fuyue did very well, and it took only two or three minutes. When all the procedures were finished, he picked up the red seal on the table and knocked on the inside of the shoe box. His name was engraved on the seal. "Who will do the assessment will be knocked on the name, so if there is quality problem after sale, you can find the inspector." 
 Xi Fuyue is now doing the inspection and after-sale work in the company. He was dressed in a blue robe, medium build, round and simple. Since replacing his father as an apprentice in 1979, Xi Fuyue has been working in the shoemaking industry for 35 years. "Such a teacher can get a pair of shoes and see the problem of shoes at the first glance." Zhao Yueting, general manager of blue Tong Bo Po Leather Shoes Co., Ltd. 
 > Sunday weekly reporter (hereinafter referred to as Sunday): Xi Shifu, I just looked at your leather shoes carefully. To tell you the truth, I couldn't understand many of the doorways. For example, if you put your fingers behind your shoes, why do you want to do it? 
 Xi Fuyue: the back of a shoe is very important. If it is too low, it will not follow the feet. If it is too high, it will rub the skin of the heel and it will hurt if you walk. At that time, when I was an apprentice, the master told me the experience he summed up: put the middle finger in, and the height of the back to second knuckles, that's right. 
 Sunday: This is very interesting. I think I can learn and use this experience when I buy shoes in the future. In addition to this, it is necessary to check if a pair of shoes is unqualified. OK, what are the other steps? 
 Xi Fuyue: from our factory inspection, first of all, we need to match the shoe box and the inside of the shoes. If this is not right, then it is useless to make the shoes any better. Then you should put all the parts of the shoes on the same side. The size of the shoe and the heel must be the same. The size of the shoe door must be the same. There is another important point of "three points and one line". Put your shoes on the table, put your hands on the back, and help yourself. If the shoes are steady, the bottom of these shoes is very smooth. When we check, we need to see if there is any glue on the outer surface. Is there any leveling in the shoes? 
 Sunday: These are the necessary steps for you to check shoes unqualified. Then I would like to know something more practical. If you buy shoes, where else will you pay attention? As you know, in the mall, a pair of shoes can move five hundred or six hundred yuan and a pair of boots are more than 1000 yuan, but ordinary consumers do not know whether the material and workmanship of the shoes are worth the price. I really want to know, how do you choose a pair of shoes with high cost performance? 
 Xi Fuyue: the cortex of shoes is very important. We have done it for a long time. If we press our hands, we probably know whether the leather is good or not. Generally speaking, the skin should not be scars. If the hand is pressed down, it will not wrinkle. It also depends on whether the material of the whole pair of shoes is evenly matched. Some shoes use good leather on the toe part, but the difference between the back part and the accessories in the shoe is different. In addition to the importance of materials, the comfort of shoes is also very important. The front part of shoes, namely the toe part, should be hard and soft. The back of the shoes should be soft and hard underneath, so it will not be easy to deform, and it will also be very comfortable to wear. 
 a pair of hands to take out, a look will know that you are making sole /strong < .
 the production of leather shoes is quite different from that of Xi Fuyue when he was an apprentice. Due to the cost of manpower, the production of "blue Tong Bu Bu" leather shoes has mostly been transferred to licensed production, which is carried out on a large scale. The third floor production workshop of Xi Tai Road's upper workshop is now dedicated to a small number of "private customization". Only this workshop, how much of the shoe workshop in 1980s is preserved. 
When you enter the door, you can see a row of metal frames similar to those in the library. The difference is that the shelves on this shelf are full of shoe last P models. Each last pair is "scarred" with sticky Brown sticky paper at different parts. According to the introduction, this represents a different foot type for each person. Some people stick their feet on the back of their last feet and stick sticky paper. 
 it is said that it is a workshop, so it is more appropriate to be a workshop, because there is no machine in it. There are two long tables in the room, all of which are all kinds of leather, some are cowhide, some are snake skin, and there is another kind of ostrich skin. A young woman worker is holding a shoe upper and sewing stitches. A fifty or sixty year old teacher wears glasses to sit on a low bamboo stool and cut shoes with scissors. 
 "this workshop is more spacious than ours." Xi Fuyue recalls. In 1979, he replaced his father into the leather shoes factory of Bo Bu, which is a very historical leather shoe factory, and it was founded in 1940s as "Lan Tang". 
 apprenticeship into the factory, there are three jobs waiting for them -- bottom workers, facial workers, cutting workers. When young men came in, they were almost arranged to do the bottom work because it was a very demanding job. Xi Fuyue raised his hands and said, "at that time, our hands were calluses and were often pulled by nails. When you take your hands out, you will know that you are sole, because the size of the two thumbs is different. The thumb of the left hand is much larger, because it always needs more force. 
 in Xi Fuyue's memory, the bottom workshop is filled with the smell of < a target= "_blank" href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/" > leather < /a >. At that time, the factory was in Nanjing West Road, where his family lived in Shimen. He walked to work every morning at around 7 a.m., much earlier than the 8 working hours stipulated. "At that time, we were not choosy about work, and we only had to adapt ourselves to this job. When we are assigned to the workshop, we must do the job well. 
 the factory is located in the center of the city. It is not large. In order to make more use of space, a floor is divided into two floors. {page_break} 
 the workshop on the first floor is about forty or fifty square meters, with several long tables. The workers sat face to face, busy with their hands. The stools they sat on were very short for the purpose of exertion. "When we do, we should put the bottom of the shoe on the knees, and the hands work hard with the feet. If the stool is high, it won't work. So people who make shoes have a long time. There is always something wrong with the cervical vertebra. " The sole of the bottom work is the most difficult and important part of the shoe. It is all made by hand, and the working efficiency is not high. At that time, a skilled worker can only make two pairs of shoes at the bottom of the day. 
 Sunday: when you are apprenticeship, how long do you have to learn before you can master the skills of making shoes? 
 Xi Fuyue: we had to study for two years at that time before we could operate independently. The factory will arrange skilled teachers to take apprentices and teach us with our hands. 
 Sunday: do you remember your master? What kind of person is he? 
 Xi Fuyue: my master's name is Huang Lianlang. When he took me, he was more than 50 years old. I remember that after four or five years in the factory, he retired. He is almost as tall as I am, about 1 meters and 75, and he is very strict. At that time, most of the teachers in the shoe factory were very fierce, very strict and bad tempered. When they were angry, they would copy the last person on the table. Most of these old teachers were apprenticeship in the 30s and 40s of last century, and they had been trained for four or five years before they had been trained independently. My master doesn't beat people, but if you don't do well, he will scold: "people can do well. If we are lazy when we start the welt (that is, stitching the bottom and the shoe upper), we should have stitched 50 needles and sew 45 needles. He will pick up the scissors and cut the thread, so that we can do it again. 
 Sunday: is there any place for master to admire you? 
 Xi Fuyue: Master shoes are more inspired by technology. There seems to be no standard for technology, but he has some summing up experience to tell us. You can take a look at your shoes, and the outer part of your heel is not worn out more. (the reporter took off his shoes and looked at it. As a matter of fact, the shoe heel was obviously rubbed away from the outside.) the master told us that most people walk on foot, leaving most of their feet on the outside. Then, when making shoes, "back sticks" and "former Baotou" (Xi Fuyue took out a piece of cardboard paper, sandwiched it between the back part and the two parts of the toe top), there was a trick. 
 there was also the hard skin at that time. When we were dragged, we were most afraid of bumping into pig skin and hard cowhide. When we pulled, our hands were very painful and often pulled out of shape. The master told us that we could use warm water to soften the skin and make it easier. 
These skills mentioned by master P are summaries of experience and no theory, but they are closely related to theory. In 1985, I was sent to participate in the training of Shanghai a target= "_blank" href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/" > shoes and hats < /a > a target= "_blank" href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/" > clothing > Association >, and the teachers there theorized the feelings and experiences of the teachers and gave a lot of data. For example, the height of the two knuckles I mentioned before has quantified data, and the stitching density of the welt, and data. The number of men's shoes in 40 yards is 40 needles. With the help of the figures, we can help us control the quality. We do not need to check like the master again, and find out that we do not conform to the rules. We can cut off the lines. Now we can tell the workers how many needles we need to achieve, and let them know when they do it. 
 former real price goods, not so much worry about shopping. 
 when Xi Fuyue entered the factory, the master took 6 disciples. Gradually, he showed his technical ability in it. "At that time, it seemed like a very simple idea. If others learn well, they will feel inferior if they do not learn well. And the master's method is very direct. If you haven't done well, he will put you aside, and only give you easy work. At that time, it will feel very bad. Xi Fuyue didn't want this feeling of loss, so he worked very hard. The factory will leave at 4, but he will stay there until seven or eight o'clock in the evening. He can't do well in the technology until he is proficient. 
 Xi Fuyue also appeared prominence in the time when he paid attention to the quality of production. He was appointed director of workshop in 1982. 
 Sunday: you said that in 1980s, you attached great importance to the quality of production. How did you feel this? 
 Xi Fuyue: we had many examinations at that time, one was held in the factory, and there were various grades of work, so that you could pass the examination from 3 to 8. I remember when I was a 7 grade worker, it was kind of like a match, a pair of shoes for you, you need to say shoe numbers. At the same time, you will take out a couple of shoes, so that you can write their questions one by one. Another test is held by the footwear and clothing association. Workers from different factories are sent to take an examination to see who is better at technology. At that time, there was another item to check with each other, that is, we went to other shoe factories for evaluation, and other shoe factories sent people to check on our side. I have been to the leather shoes factory in Changning, and they take out 5 pairs of men and women's shoes. Let's pick out the problems. So the advantage of mutual evaluation is that when strangers come, they will speak directly and will not cover up. 
 Sunday: so much attention should be paid to the quality of production. The quality of shoes will be very good then. 
 Xi Fuyue: in 1980s, a pair of black laced men's leather shoes were sold. They sold 18.6 yuan a pair. Do you know the cost? At that time, enterprises did not seem to pay much attention to gross margins. Now, when shopping, people sometimes worry that this thing is not worth the price, but it used to be a real price, not so much worried. The leather shoes made of 18.6 yuan are made of cowhide. They are very comfortable and very breathable. And before it was popular, it was called "765" a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp" > leather shoes < /a >, the price is 7 yuan, 6 gross 5, it is made of pig skin, very hard, and it is also very stuffy in wearing, it is really a sub price.