5 Key Points Of Milan Fashion Week: Reuse, Recycling And Reduction

The fashion month has been in the past three weeks, and the autumn and winter of 2020 finally ushered in the audience's long-awaited and stirring moment. Despite the fear of the outbreak of coronavirus, authorities had to close schools and public places, and even forced Armani to cancel the T Taida show. The Milan fashion week was the most exciting fashion news of the season or this year. Last Sunday, at a secret press conference at Prada headquarters, Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada announced that the Belgian designer would join Prada as the co creative director of the family brand.
But even before the news of Prada came out, people in the industry had much to discuss about the fashion week. Here are five important points of Milan fashion week.
　 1. the new crown virus remains the top priority.
In the fashion week of Milan, public health problems continue to perplex the industry, and they can not predict the future impact on sales and production. These growing concerns are exacerbated by the outbreak of a series of new crown viruses in Italy. At the Lynette airport in Milan, welcome buyers and editors came to the doctor of the Ministry of health of Italy to check their temperature. In order to show solidarity, Italy fashion week (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) launched the "China, we are with you" at the beginning of the fashion week in Italy (China). The initiative of we are with you broadcasts the fashion show and other exclusive fashion week content on Tencent platform, so that Chinese fashion industry members can participate in Milan fashion week in virtual cloud way without being able to attend.
Giorgio Armani even cancelled the invitation to its mainline show at the last minute, because people's concerns about the outbreak of the virus in the city have escalated. He showed his latest design in an "empty theater" and broadcast live on the brand's website and social media channel. A brand representative said in a statement: "this decision is designed to ensure the safety of all invited guests and not allow them to appear in crowded space."
　 2. the Moncler Genius project still has stamina.
On the first day of Milan fashion week, Gucci, Alberta Ferretti, No21 and Jil Sander arranged the fashion show. But the most impressive thing is Moncler's Genius large installations. Tens of thousands of people came to an abandoned factory to see what kind of products the latest designer of the brand brought. Eight main Genius series and three accessories series have their own stand.
The debut of JW Anderson's Genius debut is the debut of Mate.bike, a start-up company in Copenhagen, as well as previous collaborators such as Simone Rocha, Craig Green, 1017 Alyx 9SM, Fragment's Teng Yuan Hao and Alyx - they have dominated the social media search of the day. Rimowa also launched its first "Genius" collaboration with built-in reflective LED aluminum trunk. "Moncler is very smart in terms of appetite, creating demand and real creativity," says Lydia King, director of buyer at Harrods Harold. She pointed out that for this suitcase, someone has asked to rush to register on the waiting list of department stores in London.
Outside the Genius project, Moncler also announced cooperation with Rick Owens, bringing a unique custom bus and clothing series. The success of the company's Genius model inspired others to try to replicate its success. So far, no one has done it yet. However, Moncler is still under tremendous pressure and has to introduce some new things every year. Now, Moncler still has the stamina.
　　 3. real good products back to Milan
No matter whether the T station is up or down, the tide seems to be no longer fashionable. From Alberta Ferretti to Max Mara, to Prada and Bottega Veneta - and even Versace: designers emphasize outdated design, wearability and minimalism, rather than designing clothes for attracting attention in social media.
On the first day of Milan fashion week, Angelo Flaccavento, BoF's guest writer, said: "the Instagram era of fashion may be coming to an end. The focus may come back to well-designed products that are designed for real life, rather than for beautiful pictures. Giorgio Armani also expressed the same view at a news conference last Friday. I hate to hear the word "fashion". We need to work hard for today's women. There should be no trend.
For Jeffrey Kalinsky, vice president and designer fashion director of Nordstrom department store, this marks the root of Milan fashion's return to minimalism. "I laughed because Milan was so famous at that time," he said. "To a certain extent, this is a very good self reference."
　　 4. luxury big show invitation to digital
In the era of environmental protectionism, brands are replacing entities with digitalization. Gucci's Alessandro Michele sent a WhatsApp voice message to the audience. Marni's Francesco Risso sent a Mp4 video file. Daniel Lee of Bottega Veneta sent an invitation with a simple e-mail to replace the brick like plastic invitation letter of last season.
It is true that these little efforts will not have any major impact on the huge landfill problem in the fashion industry. However, this change shows that in a industry deeply rooted in the culture of "calling for culture", the way of thinking about fashion marketing has changed a lot. These dramatic and exaggerated invitations have attracted attention and praise in social media. Today, these marketing initiatives are more likely to lead to harsh criticism, which is considered wasteful and unnecessary. In New York and London, invitations such as electronic invitations and Apple Wallet have become the norm. However, in Milan, designers have brought the creativity brought by digitalization to a new height.
　　 5. reuse, recycle and reduce again
Sustainability is still the most popular popular word in fashion industry, and it affects the way designers try to design their own series. For Marni, designer Francesco Risso spliced the old fabrics together. The patch (also using old shoe dandruff) suddenly appeared in Tod 's - the former Bottega Veneta designer Walter Chiapponi launched his first series for the brand.
Elsewhere, the impact of sustainability is less subtle. Emporio Armani copied the concept of R-E-A, which first appeared in the January brand men's wear show. It is a capsule series using recycled, regenerated or organic materials. The background of the dress is a black curtain, with the words "I m saying yes to recycling" on the background.
In Moncler, the Genius Grenoble ski clothing series of the brand uses technology to carry out experiments of sustainable innovation, and designs a luminous ski suit that can be charged by natural light. "It's not just a function, it's the next trend of the coat," says King of Harold's department store. Where fashion goes, Extinction Rebellion goes wherever it goes. This season, a group of protesters wore white linen clothing from head to toe and walked through the city in a painful procession. Vogue Runway director Nichole Phelps released this photo on Instagram: "the specter of fashion industry and environmental disaster," she wrote.